Physical or chemical exfoliation: differences and which one to choose

Physical or chemical exfoliation: which one to choose? Physical exfoliation removes dead cells through friction, using granules, sponges, or brushes; chemical exfoliation does so using acids (AHA, BHA) or enzymes that break the bond between those cells, without the need for scrubbing. Neither is better for everyone: the choice depends on your skin type, how sensitive it is, and how you intend to use it. If you have rosacea, dermatitis, or acne, consult your dermatologist before starting.

Why are we moving away from "concoctions"?

Exfoliation here, exfoliation there, use an acid, make your own homemade mask... It is unclear at what point in history skincare became an escape room with thousands of tools.

If you think a good facial hygiene routine, or skincare, requires a lot of different product types in a single application, you are mistaken. What a good cleansing routine usually needs is proper exfoliation, which helps keep pores clean and skin texture more even.

Has anyone explained to you exactly what pores are and why you should keep them clean? Surely you only have a slight idea that sebum and dead cell residue accumulate on your face. But the importance of this cleansing really lies in how your skin type behaves.

We explain everything below!

Cell renewal

What are pores and how do they influence the skin?

Pores are openings that release sweat and sebum, especially in the oily areas of the face, such as the nose and chin. A process of cell renewal takes place in the skin, where dead cells appear on the epidermis. Meanwhile, the new ones that are regenerating remain beneath it.

These help us sweat and keep us cool, so the healthy appearance—or lack thereof—of your skin depends on your pores. The sebum they produce, that moisturizing oily substance, keeps your skin soft and flexible. Just as it has its beneficial properties, if not cared for, it leads to short- and long-term consequences.

Why do dead cells and sebum accumulate?

Excess sebum mixes with dead cells, clogging the pores so that they can enlarge and become more visible. From the approximately 0.2 square millimeters that normal pores measure, they can enlarge up to 3 times more. Therefore, if they are dirty, the debris that accumulates in them can also be seen with the naked eye.

INTERESTING: The word "exfoliation" refers to the Latin exfoliare, which means to strip of leaves, that is, to remove layers of the skin.

Factors that worsen skin condition

There are different factors that affect pore clogging, aside from sebum and dead cells:

• Makeup: it accumulates in the pores over time; it is essential to remove makeup.
• Pollution: there are particles in the environment that accumulate on the skin. These external agents can also irritate it, so it is important to clean the pores well.
• Skin type: genetics are unavoidable; however, you can focus on your skin type to control pore clogging. If you have oily skin, you likely have more open pores than others, as sebum accumulates and expands them. Don't worry! If you learn to clean them well, they will appear diminished.

An important part of the pores are the sebaceous filaments, where a hair is located and through which sebum from the sebaceous glands exits. When they become clogged, they produce pimples, blackheads, or whiteheads, which can leave a mark when they disappear. These are vulnerable to bacteria such as Propionibacterium acnes, which proliferate on the surface. If the filaments are not cleaned, they can stretch until they look like facial hair.

These can turn into blackheads if the sebum is exposed to oxygen, oxidizing and darkening. Everyone has sebaceous filaments, though those with oily skin tend to have more visible ones. And that's okay, as it is completely natural.

VERY IMPORTANT: do not extract the sebum from your pores on your own. It is not possible to make it disappear, it is only possible to clean it. We tell you how to exfoliate your face step by step!

Drier skin types also have these problems, as dead skin accumulates and also clogs the pores. And even if they aren't saturated, they will still look larger due to their rough texture.

Types of exfoliation

Physical exfoliation:

Also called mechanical, it is based on the use of scrubs with granules or sponges and brushes, shedding the surface layer of your skin through friction.

It is standard to use microparticles of specific sizes to avoid damaging the skin with scratches. Even so, it is important to apply them gently and not press while massaging in circular motions with the scrub.

The use of medium or large-grain physical scrubs is not recommended for sensitive skin, skin with atopic dermatitis, or acne, nor is it recommended for very dry skin. If you have oily or normal skin, you can use them 1-2 times per week. Still, it is preferable to always use a scrub with small-sized grains to avoid scratching the skin's surface.

Chemical exfoliation:

This exfoliation is known as chemical peeling; it does not contain granules, nor is it necessary to massage for it to take effect. Among its ingredients are acids or enzymes that produce that peeling effect upon application; these are known not only as "scrubs" but also as serums, masks, toners...

This type of exfoliation requires more caution: they are potent actives and facial skin is quite sensitive, so it is advisable to respect their concentration, frequency, and not combine several at once. In fact, you can find some products recommended for daily or alternating-day use due to their low concentration. But being honest, are you monitoring the concentrations of the products you use? Do you take into account what they add up to when using several at once?

Please always read the instructions to avoid irritation. You will see that many are recommended for nighttime use, because acids increase the skin's sensitivity to sunlight, and it is important to use sunscreen the next day.

A general problem: increased sensitivity

We are having more and more skin irritation problems. 60-70% of women report having sensitive skin, compared to 50-60% of men, according to Miranda A. Farage in the study The Prevalence of Sensitive Skin (2019).

Among the factors that can influence this are the use of abrasive products that weaken the epidermis, environmental pollution, a diet poor in nutrients, habits like smoking or drinking alcohol, over-cleansing...

The definition of sensitive skin is created with highly subjective characteristics that prioritize pain or discomfort. This feeling is triggered by stimuli that normally shouldn't affect the skin in that way and are also related to skin redness.

According to the International Forum for the Study of Itch (IFSI) in Pathophysiology and management of sensitive skin: position paper from the special interest group on sensitive skin (2020), this hypersensitive behavior of the skin may be related to alterations in the nerves connected to it.

You are likely accustomed to hearing that for your filaments or pores, you need exfoliation with alpha-hydroxy and beta-hydroxy acids. What are these? Lactic, salicylic, glycolic acid... You will have heard them all many times; they are identified as AHA and BHA.

They are recommended for use only at night, as they increase sun sensitivity and, without protection, can promote irritation and blemishes.

Benefits of exfoliated skin

Whether physical or chemical, proper exfoliation helps remove dead cells, makes the skin look brighter and more uniform, and helps your creams and serums absorb better. The key is in the gentleness and frequency: we explain it in our guide on how to exfoliate your face.

The best natural exfoliator for your face: GRACE

Now that you know how important it is to exfoliate, are you ready to try our facial scrub? 120 women tried GRACE for 1 month and these were the results: