1. Introduction
Smell says things about us even before we speak. A perfume can soothe, trigger memories, or simply make a routine feel like a ritual. That’s why, when we hear phrases like "perfumes are toxic" or "fragrances disrupt your hormones," it's natural to feel alarmed. But as is almost always the case in health and cosmetics, the reality is more nuanced: not all perfumes are the same, nor do they all pose the same risk. There are naturally derived fragrances and synthetic fragrances; both share goals (smelling good, lasting, being stable), but they differ in their composition, how they behave on the skin, and what implications they can have for health—including hormonal health, which Banbu places at its core.
Public conversation has been filled with terms like endocrine disruptors, allergens, or persistent compounds, often mixed with alarmist messages or "black or white" simplifications. The result: distrust and confusion. What are perfumes really made of? Is "natural" better by definition? Is synthetic always "bad"? What should we really avoid and how can we recognize it on a label?
Here lies one of the biggest knots of the problem: labeling. In the ingredient list (INCI), the word "parfum" or "fragrance" can group dozens or even hundreds of substances that are not detailed individually. This umbrella makes it difficult for consumers to know if their cream, shampoo, or deodorant contains specific allergens, potentially problematic fixatives, or molecules they would prefer to avoid. For a brand committed to transparency and hormonal health, like Banbu, this opacity is incompatible with informed decision-making.
This article aims to provide clarity, context, and practical criteria. First, we will explain what a perfume is from a technical standpoint: how it is constructed and why it combines notes and aromatic families. Then, we will address the difference between natural and synthetic fragrances: where they come from, how they are composed, and what advantages and disadvantages each has, both in terms of efficacy and safety. We will dedicate a section to the INCI labeling and its current limitations, to understand why "parfum" is sometimes not enough and what improvements exist or should be promoted. We will also delve into what concerns people most: health and actual exposure, with clear examples of identified molecules, the role of dosage, frequency of use, and bioaccumulation. Finally, we will offer simple guides for making better choices: from interpreting an INCI to recognizing more transparent and sustainable practices.
2. What is a perfume?
Talking about perfume isn't just about "smelling good." Perfume is a complex chemical composition designed to evoke sensations, adhere to the skin, and remain stable in a cosmetic product. It can be composed of a few molecules or hundreds, but it always responds to a very precise art and technique.
2.1 Definition in cosmetics
In cosmetics, the term "fragrance" or "parfum" refers to the mixture of natural or synthetic aromatic substances, usually dissolved in a vehicle (alcohol or oils), which are added to a product to give it a pleasant smell. This mixture is not just there for aesthetics: the aroma influences the user experience, the perception of effectiveness, and even brand loyalty.
2.2 How a perfume is constructed
A perfume is not a single scent, but a layered architecture:
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Top notes → are what we perceive in the first few seconds (citrus, mint, lavender). They evaporate quickly and create the first impression.
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Heart notes → are revealed when the initial ones disappear (flowers, spices, fruits). They are the "body" of the fragrance.
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Base notes → heavier and more persistent (woods, resins, musks). They provide longevity and character.
This olfactive pyramid construction is used in high-end perfumes as well as in a simple shampoo, because it helps to control the sensory experience.
2.3 Brief historical overview
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Antiquity: The first perfumes were resins, incenses, and essential oils extracted from plants, used in religious rituals or as symbols of status.
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Middle Ages and Renaissance: Distillation of roses, lavender, and aromatic herbs; birth of artisanal perfumery in Europe.
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19th Century: Chemical revolution: the synthesis of aromatic molecules (like vanillin) allowed perfume to be democratized and made accessible, as well as more stable.
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Today: Coexistence of natural and synthetic. Many fragrances are "mixed": they combine laboratory molecules with essential oils to achieve a balance between cost, stability, and sensory experience.
2.4 Why it matters to understand it
Understanding this basis is key before talking about toxicity or safety. We cannot demonize perfume as a whole: it is necessary to know what it is made of, how it is used, and in what dose. Only then can we differentiate if a product is safe, if it can irritate, or if it contains controversial molecules like endocrine disruptors.
3. Natural vs. synthetic perfumes
